Drum brake assembly,
designed for use with hydraulic brake actuators that do not include reverse
lockouts. Fits most 10 in, 12 in and 13 in trailer rims.
- Galphorite plating delivers superior
corrosion protection. The backing plate and shoe levers are sealed with
permanently bonded electro-coat primer, and a second coat of rugged acrylic
is applied to backing plate. The wheel cylinders are treated with hot black
oxide, the internal components are olive drab, zinc plated with stainless
steel springs. The free-backing design lets you reverse without trailer
brakes being activated and is specifically designed for use with surge type
trailer brake actuators.
- Left-hand assembly (street side)
- Dimensions: 8-1/2 in wide x 2-1/4 in thick
- Free Backing
- Pad lining: 37 sq in
- 4 Mounting holes on 2-7/8" center
- Axle rating: up to 3,000 lb
- 1-Year mfg warranty
- 2-Year mfg corrosion warranty
1.) Brake Mounting Flange
To assure correct brake action, the mounting flange must be square and
concentric with the axle spindle. A flange that is not properly installed will
contribute to rapid lining wear and improper brake action.
Use a flange welding fixture to properly position the flange for welding.
Bolt the flange to the welding fixture securely with all bolts.
Install the fixture (and flange) onto the spindle and tighten spindle nut.
If flange is being installed on a round axle, be certain the two top holes are
horizontal when the axle is installed.
Is is best not to make a continuous weld around the flange. First, tack
weld on all four sides between the bolts. Follow this with a full weld up each
side of the axle. it is usually not advisable or necessary to weld across the
top and bottom of the axle. The bottom of the axle is its most highly stressed
area and a weld at this pint will weaken the axle. Allow the axle, spindle and
flange to cool before removing welding fixture.
The drawings below are of a typical installation. The actual installation will depend on the spindle, hub and wheel.
2.) Installing Brakes
Place the brake against spindle flange. Mounting bolts are supplied with
the brake. Nuts and lock washers are provided. In mounting the brake, be sure
the hydraulic wheel cylinder is at the top.
Brakes are also marked as "RIGHTS" and "LEFTS". The brake designated as
"LEFT" travels on the drivers side of the road.
3.) Installing Brake Drum
When the brakes have been correctly assembled to the axle flanges, the hub
and drum assemblies may be mounted on the axle spindle.
Pack the inside bearing with suitable wheel bearing grease. Force grease
through and around the rollers. Place the bearing in the hub and install the
grease seal flush with the end of the hub using an arbor press or soft mallet.
Remove excess grease.
To avoid injury to bearing seal, lubricate seal seat prior to putting on
the brake drum. Grease, pack and install the outer bearing on the spindle. Place
the flat washer and spindle nut on spindle. Turn drum as you tighten nut. When a
pronounced drag is felt in the bearings, back off nut one complete slot and
install cotter pin and dust cap.
DO NOT pack hub full of grease. Excessive grease may leak into
brake drums causing brake failure.
Wheel may now be mounting of the trailer.
4.) Adjusting the Brakes
Before removing the jacks, adjust the brakes. Titan "Surg-O_Matic" trailer
brakes incorporate a patented "Back Up" feature that makes it necessary to
rotate the wheels in the direction of forward rotation only when making
The brake shoe adjustment nuts are located behind the two slots at the
bottom of the back plate. Tighten one of the nuts until you cannot rotate the
wheel by hand. Then back off the adjustment 10 to 12 notches or until you can
just start to feel the shoe drag when rotating the wheel forward. Repeat the
process on the other side.
ALWAYS ROTATE DRUM IN DIRECTION OF FORWARD ROTATION
5.) Hydraulic Lines
Before, use care in forming tubing to avoid sharp bends or kinks. Double
flare steel tubing to assure tight leak proof connections. Anchor all hydraulic
lines at two foot intervals to prevent chafing and vibration. Use hydraulic
rubber hose at points of flexing. Anchor hose ends to avoid stress on tubing.
6.) Bleeding the System
The first requisite for safe, sure hydraulic braking is the use of quality
brake fluid. Use on DOT-3 or DOT-4 heavy duty fluid. If pressure bleeding
equipment is available, follow the manufacturer's instruction in bleeding the
Use only fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. DO NOT reuse
fluid. After filling and bleeding, remember to refill
the actuator. Failure to
maintain an adequate fluid level may cause brake failure.
If system must be bled manually, proceed as follows: Fill master cylinder
with fluid. Install bleeder hose on first wheel cylinder to be bled, (if tandem
axle trailer, bleed rear axle first). Have loose end of hose submerged in brake
fluid in glass container to observe bubbling.
By loosening the bleeder screw located on the wheel cylinder one turn,
the system is open to the atmosphere through the passage drilled in the screw.
Pump the actuator with long steady strokes. Close the bleeder screw after each
stroke to prevent air from being pulled back into the brake system. The bleeding
operation is complete when air bubbles no longer appear.
Repeat bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder. During the bleeding
process, replenish the brake fluid, so the level does not fall below the 1/2
full level in the master cylinder reservoir. After bleeding is completed, make
sure the master cylinder is filled to 3/8 inch below the top of the reservoir,
and filler cap securely in place.
Saltwater, granular fertilizers and other corrosive materials
are destructive to metal. To prolong the life of a braking
system used under
corrosive conditions, we recommend that the actuator be flushed periodically
with a high pressure
water hose. Be sure to re grease bearings and oil all
moving parts after the unit has dried. At the end of the season,
when the unity
is to be stored, remove the brake drums and clean inside the brakes. Pack wheel
bearings before drum is installed.