1.) Brake Mounting Flange
To assure correct brake action, the mounting flange must be square and concentric with the axle spindle. A flange that is not properly installed will contribute to rapid lining wear and improper brake action.
Use a flange welding fixture to properly position the flange for welding. Bolt the flange to the welding fixture securely with all bolts.
Install the fixture (and flange) onto the spindle and tighten spindle nut. If flange is being installed on a round axle, be certain the two top holes are horizontal when the axle is installed.
Is is best not to make a continuous weld around the flange. First, tack weld on all four sides between the bolts. Follow this with a full weld up each side of the axle. it is usually not advisable or necessary to weld across the top and bottom of the axle. The bottom of the axle is its most highly stressed area and a weld at this pint will weaken the axle. Allow the axle, spindle and flange to cool before removing welding fixture.
The drawings below are of a typical installation. The actual installation will depend on the spindle, hub and wheel.
2.) Installing Brakes
Place the brake against spindle flange. Mounting bolts are supplied with the brake. Nuts and lock washers are provided. In mounting the brake, be sure the hydraulic wheel cylinder is at the top.
Brakes are also marked as "RIGHTS" and "LEFTS". The brake designated as "LEFT" travels on the drivers side of the road.
3.) Installing Brake Drum
When the brakes have been correctly assembled to the axle flanges, the hub and drum assemblies may be mounted on the axle spindle.
Pack the inside bearing with suitable wheel bearing grease. Force grease through and around the rollers. Place the bearing in the hub and install the grease seal flush with the end of the hub using an arbor press or soft mallet. Remove excess grease.
To avoid injury to bearing seal, lubricate seal seat prior to putting on the brake drum. Grease, pack and install the outer bearing on the spindle. Place the flat washer and spindle nut on spindle. Turn drum as you tighten nut. When a pronounced drag is felt in the bearings, back off nut one complete slot and install cotter pin and dust cap.
WARNING DO NOT pack hub full of grease. Excessive grease may leak into brake drums causing brake failure.
Wheel may now be mounting of the trailer.
4.) Adjusting the Brakes
Before removing the jacks, adjust the brakes. Titan "Surg-O_Matic" trailer brakes incorporate a patented "Back Up" feature that makes it necessary to rotate the wheels in the direction of forward rotation only when making adjustments.
The brake shoe adjustment nuts are located behind the two slots at the bottom of the back plate. Tighten one of the nuts until you cannot rotate the wheel by hand. Then back off the adjustment 10 to 12 notches or until you can just start to feel the shoe drag when rotating the wheel forward. Repeat the process on the other side.
ALWAYS ROTATE DRUM IN DIRECTION OF FORWARD ROTATION ONLY.
5.) Hydraulic Lines
Before, use care in forming tubing to avoid sharp bends or kinks. Double flare steel tubing to assure tight leak proof connections. Anchor all hydraulic lines at two foot intervals to prevent chafing and vibration. Use hydraulic rubber hose at points of flexing. Anchor hose ends to avoid stress on tubing.
6.) Bleeding the System
The first requisite for safe, sure hydraulic braking is the use of quality brake fluid. Use on DOT-3 or DOT-4 heavy duty fluid. If pressure bleeding equipment is available, follow the manufacturer's instruction in bleeding the system.
Use only fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. DO NOT reuse fluid. After filling and bleeding, remember to refill
the actuator. Failure to maintain an adequate fluid level may cause brake failure.
If system must be bled manually, proceed as follows: Fill master cylinder with fluid. Install bleeder hose on first wheel cylinder to be bled, (if tandem axle trailer, bleed rear axle first). Have loose end of hose submerged in brake fluid in glass container to observe bubbling.
By loosening the bleeder screw located on the wheel cylinder one turn, the system is open to the atmosphere through the passage drilled in the screw. Pump the actuator with long steady strokes. Close the bleeder screw after each stroke to prevent air from being pulled back into the brake system. The bleeding operation is complete when air bubbles no longer appear.
Repeat bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder. During the bleeding process, replenish the brake fluid, so the level does not fall below the 1/2 full level in the master cylinder reservoir. After bleeding is completed, make sure the master cylinder is filled to 3/8 inch below the top of the reservoir, and filler cap securely in place.
WARNING Saltwater, granular fertilizers and other corrosive materials are destructive to metal. To prolong the life of a braking
system used under corrosive conditions, we recommend that the actuator be flushed periodically with a high pressure
water hose. Be sure to re grease bearings and oil all moving parts after the unit has dried. At the end of the season,
when the unity is to be stored, remove the brake drums and clean inside the brakes. Pack wheel bearings before drum is installed.